what does it mean when a sandwich is served only on a weekend menu after midnight? it either means that the ‘wich is experimental, foisted onto drunk weekend revelers; or, it means that the ‘wich is so phenomenally good that it needs to be kept in short, limited supply, just in case the ‘wich hordes besiege the eatery. this smoked pork shoulder banh mi falls in the latter category, no question. the pickled daikon and fresh carrots and cucumber hint at classic banh mi flavors, but any adherence to tradition is blown out of the water by the ‘wich’s rich liver mousse, a spicy aioli, and tender, deeply marinated, chili soaked smoked pork shoulder. it’s the american south meets asia, in a sloppy bundle of goodness. the best “banh mi” on the list, bar none.