when you eat a tuna sandwich with a knife and fork, you know you’re not in (culinary) kansas anymore. celebrated chef thomas keller’s bouchon bakery offers a tartine featuring rich, creamy tuna generously piled on top of a large piece of french country bread. deviled eggs, sliced and spiced, tango with fresh radish slices, while olives and a garlic aioli provide a salty, pungent counterpoint. while i would normally wolf down a tuna ‘wich in a couple of minutes, i took my time with chef keller’s creation. truly the best tuna ‘wich i’ve ever had.