this version of a croque by april bloomfeld, the celebrated english chef at the spotted pig (whose excellent burger hermione and i devoured in the heart of winter), melts three cheeses together into a velvety blanket that coddles salty cured ham slices. the bread slices are smeared with butter and parmesan cheese, taking on a seductive sheen. i grabbed this ‘wich at breakfast, when the option to stuff an egg in the middle was available. you betcha i asked for it. runny, runny, runny goodness.