the gals and guys from mile end delicatessen (whose extraordinary smoked meat ‘wich is #11 on this list) are at it again, this time with a bit of culinary metamorphosis. when is salami more than its already awesome self? when it is made of premium brisket and short ribs, smoked, and then fried like a doomed egg during sunday brunch. when is a salami sandwich more than its already excellent self? when its meaty contents are smeared with mustard and squished inside a robust onion roll. (onions!!! in roll form!!! prayers ARE answered!!! why am i using so many exclamation marks?!!!) when is a sunny day in brooklyn more than its already beautiful self? when i have the company of ms. ruth wilensky, a surprisingly delicate marriage of flavors and textures, and a heckuva tango partner. it takes two, after all.